The Palio: Pt. 2 (late post)

As I mentioned earlier, Siena has two Palios. Tomorrow's is the Palio di Provenzano. This festival is in honor of the Madonna of Provenzano, a painting of the Virgin Mary, which was supposed to have miraculous curative power. To put it into perspective, this is not merely a costumed horse race held in the center of town. The Palio represents the former greatness of the Republic of Siena, the centuries old kinship ties between the members of each contrada, past enmities, alliances, and much much more.

This year, Chiocciola (the Snail) and Tartuca (the turtle), who are sworn enemies, were the favorites for the title. Unfortunately, Chiocciola’s horse was injured at the very first trial run for the Palio. (There are four in total).

After each evening Prova (trial run), there is a dinner in each contrada. I was fortunate enough to be invited by my host mom to attend Drago’s “Cena Prova Generale.” At this dinner, about 300 guests attended - most of whom were happily innebriated by the time the antipasto was served. Girls and boys of all ages took turns singing the contrada song and clapped their hands and pounded their tables with glee.

After having dinner with what felt like one big happy family, why more cities aren't split into contradas. It really is a good system.


Civetta's (the owl) horse and caretaker.

Part of the garden in San Domenico church. (after dinner)

Me and my host mom, Stella.

The kids are just making a friendly hand/arm gesture to a rival contrada.

Nicchio was also a favorite. They are a large contrada. The scarves that they are waving were given to them at birth, signed by the captain of the contrada.


Ciao, arrivederci.
-Teo